On The Masculinization of Weaving Tradition in Sumba, Eastern Indonesia

Abstract (English)

This research explores the masculinization of traditional ikat weaving in Eastern Sumba, Indonesia, a domain historically dominated by women. As global demand for these traditional textiles rises, significant shifts in gender roles are observed, with men increasingly taking over not only the production aspects—such as motif design and dyeing—but also the management and business processes. This study aims to understand how local-global dynamics influence the value, social significance, and economic life of this weaving tradition. Employing a multi-sited ethnographic approach, the research traces the journey of Sumbanese textiles from household production to global markets, focusing on changes in gender relations, social hierarchies, and heritage-making practices.

Preliminary findings indicate that noblemen (Maramba) with greater economic capital and extensive networks outside Sumba are leveraging global market opportunities, consolidating the economic benefits of weaving within elite groups, and exacerbating social inequalities in Eastern Sumbanese society. This masculinization challenges traditional female roles as cultural custodians, transforming weaving from a symbol of female empowerment and cultural identity into an economically lucrative activity dominated by men. Furthermore, the study examines how heritage preservation initiatives—such as efforts to nominate Sumbanese textiles for UNESCO World Heritage status—often overlook local gender dynamics, reinforcing existing power structures while marginalizing the women who have historically sustained these traditions.

Theoretically, this research draws on concepts of gender appropriation, global commodity and value chains, and the social life of things to analyze how Eastern Sumba textiles function not just as trade goods but as mediums for negotiating identity, power, and economic value. The study seeks to contribute to anthropological discussions on the interplay between local traditions and global forces, offering new insights into how traditional crafts adapt amid modern economic pressures. Ultimately, this research highlights the evolving role of gender in the preservation and commercialization of cultural heritage, advocating for more inclusive cultural development practices that recognize and support the contributions of women in sustaining traditional arts.