Life at the ‘Frame’: The Indian Women of Chikankari

Abstract (English)

The paper explores the intricate world of chikankari, Lucknow’s renowned embroidery craft, through the lives of its women artisans. It’s a case based narrative analysis of the life and work of chikankari artisans. This qualitative work delves into the socio-cultural and economic challenges faced by these skilled women, whose delicate stitches on muslin conceal stories of resilience, exploitation, and identity. The wooden frame (adda) serves as both a tool and a metaphor, holding taut the fabric of their craft and the questions of their existence. Through intimate portraits of artisans like Meenal, Shahista, Shadab Begum, and Farida, I reveal the paradox of chikankari: a celebrated art form sustained by women whose labor is undervalued and lives marginalized. Meenal stitches in secrecy to avoid domestic conflict, Shahista takes pride in her unique hand, Shadab Begum embodies the craft’s legacy, and Farida rejects it for her daughter’s future. The narrative traces chikankari’s historical shift from an elite leisure time creative work to a commercialized craft dominated by market greed, where women’s contributions are overshadowed by male intermediaries. Despite their skill, these artisans grapple with meager wages, physical ailments, and societal constraints, their identities blurred between artist, laborer, and woman. This case study based research highlights their endurance and quiet defiance, portraying chikankari as a tapestry of beauty and pain, woven by women who seek fair recognition in a world that often dismisses their worth.